This blog was started by Joshua Landis in 2015 to commemorate the American community in Lebanon and particularly of Ainab. He grew up in this hilltop community that was started in 1932-33 by five American University of Beirut families: the Dodd, Close, Leavitt, Kerr, and Crawford families. Later families included: Landis, Crow, Dodge, Eddy, Scott, Gordon and Kennedy. Other families who summered in Shemlan, just below Ainab, include: Dorman, Stoltzfus, Smith, Van Dyck.
Monday, December 21, 2020
Dodges at the Dodge House
Sunday, September 13, 2020
The Dorman Family in Lebanon - By Peter Dorman 9/2020
According to family lore, the Dorman family connection to Lebanon came about in the late 1890s at Union Congregational Church in Montclair, NJ, when Harry Gaylord Dorman, an aspiring physician at Columbia University, asked of his neighbor who the young lady was near the front pews.
Harry Gaylord Dorman Sr. |
“She’s the minister’s niece,” came the answer, whereupon Harry simply grunted, “Humph.” The minister was Howard Sweetser Bliss, who in a few years was to be appointed president of the Syrian Protestant college (in 1902, succeeding his father, Daniel Bliss), and the young lady was Mary Bliss Dale, visiting her uncle on break from her classes at Vassar College.
May Dale (later, Mary Dale Dorman). Freshman at Vassar College, 1898 |
Apparently Harry had a change of heart when, on graduation from Columbia’s College of Physicians and Surgeons in 1900, he married Mary and they traveled together to Beirut, where the bride’s widowed mother (who also called herself Mary Bliss Dale!) was living, and where Harry took a position as a pediatrician at the college hospital.
Mary Dale (later, Dorman), age 15, and her mother, Mary Bliss Dale, in Bedouin clothing, Jerusalem, 1895. |
Beginning in 1903, the couple eventually had six children: Gerald, Harry Jr. (“Bud”), Belle, John, Daniel (Dan), and David, all born in Beirut except for John, who was born in Shemlan.
Dorman Family after David's birth 1919 |
1922 Beirut harbor and Mount Lebanon |
The Dormans occupied a large traditional house with a red-tiled roof on the corner of Rue Abdul Aziz and what was to become Rue Bliss (named after Howard following his untimely death in 1920) across the street from the college campus.
Dorman Beirut House on Rue Bliss marked with an X 1922 |
Harry Sr. set up his clinic on the ground floor of the building, while the upper floors were occupied by the family.
Harry Dorman Sr. 1922 in the Beirut House |
The house was the home of Daniel and Abby Bliss as well as Mary Dale, after they moved out of the president’s residence at Marquand House to make room for his son and successor. As the children grew older, they attended classes at the American Community School, which was established in 1905 for children of the faculty of the college. Mary Dale Dorman was one of the organizers, and classes were initially held at the Dorman home, and later in larger quarters on Sidani Street just off Rue Jeanne d’Arc. To escape the heat and humidity of Beirut summers, Harry purchased a large villa and grounds in Shemlan from the Marquis de Freij around 1910 that overlooked the small village and, far below, Beirut and the coastline south of the city
Shemlan 4th of July with fireworks: Belle Dorman is the girl with bows in her hair |
Mary Dale had cofounded the Nursing School at the college in 1905 together with Elizabeth Van Zandt (the first nursing school in the Middle East), and Harry was appointed founding dean of the Medical School in 1915 (until 1924). Those first decades were eventful, as the family endured the hardships of the First World War within the colonial territory of the Ottoman Empire, allied with Germany, Austria-Hungary, and Italy. Their closest friends from that period were their Bliss cousins living at Marquand House with Aunt Amy (Blatchford): Margaret, Alice, and Mary.
The war years were a time of extreme deprivation. As Superintendent of Nursing at the AUB Hospital, Mary Bliss Dale witnessed the terrible starvation and suffering of the occupied population and was actively involved in distributing food and other aid to the local Arabs, though under Ottoman military rule it was strictly forbidden for her to do so. One hot summer day, the military police showed up at her office and told her that she was to come with them immediately to the police station: essentially, an arrest. She led the policemen out of the building and past their carriage, announcing that she would rather walk. At her usual brisk pace, her flummoxed escort had no choice but to follow her and arrived at the police station dripping heavily with sweat. When the captain began to lecture her on the law against aiding the Arabs, she soon interrupted him, saying, "You asked me to come to the station, and here I am. But I can't stay here long, because I'm very busy at the hospital. Goodbye." She turned and stalked out, knowing that, as Muslims, the police could not touch her or physically restrain her. She walked straight back to her office and was never bothered again.
From an Interview with Belle Dorman Rugh at age 100 in 2008.
1926 Harry Dorman Sr., Harry Dorman Jr., John, Dan |
Among many visitors to the Dorman home around 1923 was an Egyptologist, James H. Breasted, who had founded Chicago’s Oriental Institute and whom Howard Carter had invited to record the stamped impressions on the sealed doorway of Tutankhamun’s tomb. Belle would later recall that, as a girl of fifteen, Breasted had kindly taken her aside to tell her about the excitement of the discovery and what it was like to enter a largely intact pharaonic tomb.
1929 New Car; Pa, Harry, John, and David |
As the Dorman children grew older, the boys were sent off in succession to boarding school at Andover (Belle continued her secondary education at ACS) and then on to Harvard and graduate school to begin various careers: Gerald as a doctor (internal medicine?), Harry as an ordained minister, John to the foreign service, Dan as an obstetrician, and David as a librarian.
While their Lebanese roots were indelible in all this generation, Belle and Harry Jr. were the only two who returned to work in Lebanon itself. Belle attended college at Vassar and earned a master's degree at Columbia University before returning to Beirut to teach: first at the Ahliyah School for girls and later at Beirut College for Women (now Lebanese American University). She met a young staffite at the American University of Beirut, Douglas Rugh, who had been born and raised in China as the son of missionaries.
Douglas Rugh & Belle Dorman newly engaged in Shemlan 1933 |
The pair were married in Shemlan in 1934 and first moved to China, where Doug taught as an instructor at Yenching University in Beijing, which had been founded along American lines much like AUB, and then to Seattle in 1937, where Doug earned his PhD in developmental education at the University of Washington. The Rughs, with their three daughters (Betsy, Molly, and June) later settled in Wethersfield, CT, where Doug taught in the education and psychology departments at the University of Connecticut.
After graduating from Harvard, Harry Jr. served initially as a staffite at International College in the late 1920s and briefly contemplated a career in archaeology, spending a 1931 season in Iraq with Bob Braidwood (later a major eminence in prehistoric Near Eastern archaeology at Chicago’s Oriental Institute). He then completed a bachelor of divinity degree at Union Theological Seminary, returning to the North Syria Boy’s School in Aleppo, where Douglas and Becky Decherd were residing, becoming fast friends.
1929 Belle in the Citadel overlooking Aleppo |
By 1938 Harry was serving as dean of students at the Boy’s School on a newly built campus. As an instructor to youth during these years, Harry was able to develop his innate entertainment skills as a storyteller (Jeha tales and fleabone stories), singer (“The Bear Went Over the Mountain,” Alouette,” Three Wood Pigeons,” etc.) , and occasional performer in the odd (sometimes quite odd) Gilbert and Sullivan production.
Dorman Siblings on Shemlan Balcony in1929 - Harry Dorman Jr. with tray of fruit on his head |
In 1939 Harry decided to begin a joint doctor of divinity degree at Harvard and Union Seminary, where he met Virginia Whitney (Ginny), who was working toward a master’s degree in sacred music; they were married in 1940 in Worcester, MA, by Ginny’s uncle, Harry Emerson Fosdick.
Before the war years, Dan had trained as an obstetrician, with the intention of eventually joining his father in Beirut and carrying the medical work forward for another generation in Beirut, but World War II intervened. Gerald joined the army as a doctor, while John and Dan joined the Navy. Harry and Ginny passed the war years in Syria/Lebanon until 1946, spending summers in Shemlan. But as German armies approached Cairo along the North African coast in 1941, they were evacuated to Jerusalem along with other American nationals in case the Egyptian capital fell and they would need to be shipped out of the region altogether. In that intervening year Harry and Ginny grew especially close to the Decherd family, also evacuees. It was from Jerusalem that Harry Sr. and Mary Dorman decided to retire from overseas service and returned to the US in 1941, moving to Cambridge, MA.
Harry G. Dorman (Sr.), M.D., 1940 - Relaxing outdoors (looks like picnic fixings in the background). |
After Rommel was turned back from El Alamein, the Americans were permitted to resume their activities in Syria, and it was left to Harry Jr. to close the family house in Beirut. Then babies arrived: Harry Gaylord Dorman III (“Gay”) was born in Tripoli four days after his grandfather’s death in 1943. The family relocated to Beirut in 1946, occupying the old family home again, and four other children came along: Eleanor, Peter, David (born in Worcester on a furlough year), and Kathy.
Dorman Family in Worcester, MA, on furlough in the summer of 1952; from left to right it’s Ginny, Eleanor, Peter, Harry III (“Gay”), and Harry Jr. (“Bud”) with David on his lap—Kathy not yet born. |
Harry’s job at this point was with Christian Youth groups, and he taught part time at the Near East School of Theology, while Ginny taught music there. Harry became Secretary of the Near East Christian Council in the early1950s and at that time the Dormans moved out of the old house on Bliss Street, which had become structurally unsound, and into an apartment on Rue Makdisi.
May Dorman in Old Beirut House 1922 |
The children all attended ACS from kindergarten on at the school’s new campus on the Corniche next to AUB, established with the support and funding from the Presbyterian mission, the US Embassy, and Aramco, many of whose employees desired an American school in the area. As with the previous generation, the kids were sent off to boarding school in the US when they were old enough: Gay and Peter to Vermont Academy and Eleanor to Northfield School for Girls. Various cousins in Beirut during this period included Margaret Bliss Leavitt, whose husband, Leslie, was headmaster of IC; and David Dodge, one of the grandsons of Daniel, whose children Bayard, Nina, and Melissa were close in age to the youngest Dormans.
Beirut winters were tempered by glorious summers in Shemlan and the occasional “Mission Meeting” in Dhour Shweir, when children of various mission families could congregate and, while their parents were in sober session, get into all kinds of mischief.
Shemlan House 1922 |
Cousins and friends also lived in Shemlan: Alice and Byron Smith (Alice was the sister of Meg Leavitt), and the Decherds. Betsy Decherd cemented a family connection in marrying George Lane, a foreign service officer who was the son of Fred Lane (the celebrated Venetian scholar) and Harriet, who was a Whitney and therefore a cousin of Ginny’s.
The usual summer activities in Shemlan were essentially the same as those of the previous (barely post-Victorian!) generation: pressing flowers and labeling them, looking for fossils and geological samples, observing the heavens and memorizing the constellations, sketching the scenery, watching ant nests, filling small glass bottles with layers of different colors of sand, enjoying afternoon teas, visiting ancient and medieval ruins, hikes to Ainab, and regular games of tennis and baseball.
Tennis in Shemlan |
Swimming at Tom Sawyer's Pool 1931 |
On Saturdays the village boys and our American friends from the Ainab colony would gather for baseball on the slanted field next to the house; in fact Shemlan developed its own competitive village team that competed against others in Beirut.
Baseball in Shemlan in 1931 |
1931 Baseball roster, including Stanley Kerr, Harold Close, William Stoltzfus was principal of a boys' school in Aleppo, Syria, and later president of the Beirut College for Women for 20 years, Leavitt, (Laurens Hickok) Seelye?, a professor at A.U.B. and father of Talcott Seelye, Ambassador to Syria, whose daughter Kate is V.P. of the Middle East Institute in DC today. |
Doug and Belle Rugh returned to Beirut in 1955-1957, when Doug worked for UNRWA to develop an educational system for Palestinian refugees; and later, in 1963-1966, when Doug worked as professor of psychology (and part-time as bursar) at AUB. During that later stay, the Rughs enjoyed summering in Baysour, a Druze village in the Chouf mountains, and visiting Belle's childhood summer home in Shemlan.
Belle's Rock & Crystal Moutain 1931
|
In 1964 the Dormans made a final move back to the US, but Eleanor was the first of her generation to return in 1968 when, after finishing her MA in philosophy she was hired to teach at the Beirut College for Women. She met her future husband Rich Johnson at BCW, beginning a lifelong joint interest in secondary education, first at Loomis School in CT, then at Robert College in Istanbul, then back to the US at Northfield-Mount Hermon with a stint in Zimbabwe; their three children—Betsy, Katie, and Peter—all had the benefit of living overseas in very different countries. With the growing conflicts in the Middle East beginning in 1967 and continuing through the civil war in Lebanon (1975-1990), it became impossible for Americans to travel to Beirut until 1997, at which time Rich was hired as the head of the math department at ACS and Eleanor as a development officer. She soon made a lateral move to the provost’s office at AUB. Their daughter, Betsy, had met her future husband, Jason Crook, at the international Schutz School in Alexandria, and moved to Beirut as well, both teaching for three years at ACS. Their son, Dan Crook, was born in Beirut in 2001, the 6th generation of the family.
The lower end of Shemlan - undated |
Shemlan in 1979 |
In the meantime, after receiving his bachelor’s degree in anthropology at Amherst and serving in the US Navy for three years, Peter chose to pursue graduate studies in Egyptology at the University of Chicago’s Oriental Institute beginning in 1974, and on a visit to Istanbul in 1976 Eleanor and Rich introduced him to Kathy Crecelius, who was teaching at the Ãœsuküdar School for Girls on the Asian side of the Bosphorus. After a lengthy courtship of five days and an engagement of 11 months, they were married in Orient, NY, and initially moved to New York for Peter’s first job at the Metropolitan Museum of Art. In 1978 they moved to Montclair, where Meg and Emily were born, and attended Union Congregational Church—exactly where the Bliss-Dorman connection had first been made. In 1988 Peter was hired at the Oriental Institute to direct the Epigraphic Survey in Luxor, whose first director, Harold Nelson, had served as a professor of history at AUB but who had been lured away by James H. Breasted to found the expedition in Luxor in 1924. Kathy, Meg, and Emily spent several winter months every year home-schooling in Luxor and exploring the ruins of ancient Thebes on their free days. Peter returned to Chicago with his family as a full-time professor of Egyptology in 199, and served for five year as chair of the department of Near Eastern languages and civilizations. Kathy and Peter were able to spend a sabbatical semester in Beirut in the spring of 2006, renting an apartment on Rue Makdisi and enjoying the company of the Johnsons. In 2008 Peter was offered the position of AUB president, and his inauguration served as a chance for a sizable family reunion together with siblings and cousins, in both Beirut and Shemlan.
Peter Dorman with Students at AUB 2012 |
Just to add some curious historical coincidences at this point, as happen so often in the Middle East to illustrate the circle of collegial and generational links: Calvin Plimpton, who was a trustee of AUB and stepped in as president of the university from 1984-87 directly following the tragic killing of Malcolm Kerr, had previously served as president of Amherst College and handed Peter his BA diploma during commencement exercises in 1970. During Peter’s tenure at AUB, a number of alumni presented him their grandfathers’ medical diplomas to show Harry Dorman (Sr.)’s signature as dean of medicine from the early 1920s; but next to it was also the signature of Harold Nelson, who was secretary of the university before his move to the Epigraphic Survey in Luxor.
Peter and Kathy lived at Marquand House until he stepped down from the presidency in 2015; he continued as a professor of history and archaeology at the university for two more years until retiring to Vashon Island in WA state. At that point Eleanor and Rich had also retired from Lebanon in 2013 and settled in Easthampton, MA.
Many earlier photos of “Dorman Family Memorabilia,” can be found here.
Saturday, September 12, 2020
Dick Scott and Elizabeth Burroughs Marriage in Ainab 1948
Susan Scott Welsh writes:
"I spent a few very happy summers at Ainab with my family in my teenage years and I believe a bit before, staying in the Gordon House. I attach some photos of the Scotts' attachment to Ainab, including most importantly my parents' wedding there.
Kerr/Kennedy House: Dick Scott and Elizabeth Burroughs.
Dick Scott and Elizabeth Burroughs Wedding in Ainab 1948 |
Dorothy Kerr Jessup writes in Sept 2020: "Dick & Elizabeth are taking their vows on the front porch of our Ainab house. It was 1948, and both my sister and Marion and I were there for the summer. I'd spent a whole year in Beirut & Ainab in 1947-48 (between high school & college) so I knew Dick Scott - I believe he was a staffite. The photo of the guests is so faded, it's hard to recognize many. But I do see Elizabeth Smith, her parents, and my sister. I'm sure my parents were there, but don't see them in that picture, and there were some I didn't know who just came for the day. Most likely there were more guests sitting on the terrace closer to bride & groom, since that was a more logical seating area than this, and since so many familiar faces from our immediate community are missing. I do remember which families were in Ainab that summer: The Crawfords (including Molly, who'd come out for the summer), Leavitts, Closes (including Art & Raymond), and Kerrs of course. I don't remember the Dodds being there in 1948 - possibly the Wests spent that summer in their house. The Stolzfuses had just built a house below our hilltop, near the village of Ainab - both Jim and Bill were there in 1948. The Smiths were living in Shimlan -- all within walking distance for us in those days!
The picture of two scruffy-looking youngsters in 1973 shows my husband and me during his only visit to Lebanon and my only return there, before the Civil War. This was when Rich and my father, Dick, first met.
Michael Scott 1973?
Tuesday, September 8, 2020
DECHERDS AND LANES IN LEBANON
DECHERDS AND LANES IN LEBANON
Written by Betsy Lane in Vermont with the assistance of Jude Lane Landis
August 2020
My father, Douglas Decherd, was the first member of the family to travel to the Middle East.
The Decherd Family: 1941 in the courtyard of the American Colony Hotel in Jerusalem. From left to right: Doug Decherd holding Eleanor, Becky Decherd, Betsy, David and Don.
After completing his BA at Sterling College in Kansas, he signed up as a short termer to teach Bible and English at Assiut College in Egypt. Although he loved his time in the Middle East, he decided to further his studies at the Pittsburgh Theological Seminary, receiving his Bachelor of Divinity degree in 1929.
Both my parents were musicians; my mother, Rebecca (Becky) Burgner Decherd with a Master’s degree in organ and he as an accomplished pianist with a good baritone voice, in need of an accompanist. Music remained an integral part of their lives, both personally and in the schools they managed in Tripoli, Lebanon. Their students sang a stirring rendition of the Lebanese national anthem, led by my mother’s enthusiastic accompaniment at the piano, at all school events.
The Decherds joined the Syria/Lebanon mission in 1931. After a year of language study in Jerusalem, Doug and Becky Decherd were sent to Aleppo, where my father taught at the North Syria Boys’ School, forerunner of Aleppo College. Will Stoltzfus, who built two houses in the hills of Lebanon, one in Alley and one in Ainab on the main road below the hilltop, was the principal of the Aleppo school. (Will Stoltzfus also founded the Junior College for women, which later became Beirut College for Women and finally Lebanese American University). Our family spent several summers in the Stoltzfus’ Alley house, known as the “Khalwe” – on the Jebel Amerkan. (There was a Jebel Amerkan in Alley as well as Ainab) We also spent a few summers at the Freidinger house in Suk el Gharb before moving on to Shemlan, first with the Dormans and then in our rented house, within shouting distance of Beit Dorman. Many years later, the Lane family spent a month at the Kerr/Eddy house on the Ainab hilltop (1963), at the invitation of Mary Eddy, whose daughter Carmen was one of my room mates at ACS. We met Mary Eddy at the embassy tennis court in Jeddah, where she was a frequent guest. The cool breezes of Ainab were a welcome change from the hot, muggy port city on the Red Sea. In early years, the Decherd family moved across the Shouf mountain, spending summers in Aley, Suk el Gharb, Shemlan and finally Ainab.
Instead of returning to Aleppo in 1938, after a year’s furlough, my parents were assigned to Tripoli, Lebanon, to work in the boys’ and girls’ schools. My father eventually became principal of both schools.
Managing both schools during the war years was a challenge, especially during the Syrian campaign in 1941, when the war seemed to be coming too close for comfort. Many Americans left for the States, but my parents chose to return to Lebanon after fleeing as refugees to Jerusalem for four months. The Vichy French, under Marshall Petain had taken over the Boys’ school, which commanded a strategic location overlooking the city and the port. Fortunately, my parents’ return to Lebanon coincided with the Vichy departure, and the schools were able to re-open in the fall. Keeping the schools open was a priority, and my father took pride in the fact that many of the graduates from his schools were well prepared for further study at the American University of Beirut.
My parents spent their first year in the Middle East studying Arabic at the School for Oriental Languages in Jerusalem. My mother was delighted to find a full pipe organ at the YMCA, a rarity in the Middle East. She returned to Jerusalem from Aleppo to play for the service of dedication in 1933, when I was six months old. She enjoyed playing the organ again in 1941, when we were refugees in Jerusalem. She and Ginny Dorman, the recently arrived young bride of Harry Dorman, who had a lovely soprano voice, gave a concert in the YMCA auditorium and also at the American Colony during Sunday afternoon recitals.
Lebanon has always felt like home to me and my siblings, but I am the only member of my generation to have returned to that area. I met my husband, George Lane in 1953, while acting as an “au pair” to the Dorman family, when they were spending a furlough year in Ginny Dorman’s summer home in Westminster, MA down the hill from the Lane family home. I taught at my father’s school in Tripoli while George finished his tour as a Philco “tech rep” on Okinawa. We were married at the Community Church in Beirut in 1955.
George joined the Foreign Service in 1957 at a time when the FS was focusing on area specialists. After three years in Washington, DC, he signed up for Arabic language studies, and we were soon on our way to the US Foreign Service Institute in Beirut , where he spent two years studying Arabic. We served in various Middle Eastern cities – Beirut, Jeddah, Aleppo, Rabat, Benghazi, a second tour in Beirut and finally Sanaa, Yemen, where George served as Ambassador. (Here is George's interview
Our oldest daughter Susanne and her husband, Yahya Sadowski are carrying on the Middle Eastern connections. Yahya was a student of Malcolm Kerr at UCLA, and spent a junior year abroad at AUB. He later taught in the Dept. of political science. Susanne is currently a member of the AUB development office, where she has worked for more than fourteen years.
This family’s emotional attachments to Lebanon run deep, and it is heartbreaking to witness the current turmoil and disintegration of the country that has been, and still is, such an important part of our lives. The connections between the families that lived through the war years, (WWII) when there was little travel in or out of Lebanon, were close, and most have lasted throughout our life-times. Helen Leavitt, first cousin to my best friend Liz Smith, and I ended up in the same corner of Massachusetts and sang in the same church choir. Malcolm Kerr was two years ahead of me at ACS in the old building on Rue Jeanne D’Arc. His future wife, Ann Zwicker, and I became good friends when she arrived in Lebanon as a junior year abroad student at AUB in the fall of 1954, the same year I was teaching at the Girls’ School in Tripoli. We met again, when Malcolm was studying for his PhD at Harvard, and George was at the Fletcher School of Law and Diplomacy at Tufts University. We have remained in touch over the years and our paths crossed in several places, including Beirut.
There is one less pleasant period of our time in Lebanon that bears mentioning.
When the American Ambassador to Lebanon, Francis Meloy, was killed in June 1976, Secretary of State Kissinger almost closed the embassy, but chose instead to keep it open with a skeletal staff. We were enjoying a fairly peaceful tour in Swaziland when George received a top secret FLASH telegram (a category normally used only in dire emergencies) summoning him to Washington for “consultations”. My mother was visiting us at the time, and said immediately, “George is going to Beirut”. She was right, of course. He left the next day, after our 4th of July celebration, and we did not see him again for six months. Our family followed the normal Foreign Service protocol in such situations, to “pack and follow”.
The State Dept. reluctantly agreed to allow me to join him in February, 1977, when tensions had subsided somewhat. Our children were able to visit us during the summer, and our youngest, Jude, spent a year at ACS. Malcolm and Ann were among our first guests. I remember walking with them through the rubble in Souk Tawily which was eerily quiet, with a few hungry cats the only creatures stirring.
George Lane's Retirement from the Foreign Service, Washington, DC 1985. From left to right: Jude Lane Landis, George Lane, Betsy Lane, Becky Decherd, Susanne Lane.
Everyone who has spent time in the Middle East has a story to tell – of troubled times but also of wonderful days at the beach or hiking in the mountains and valleys and savoring some of the best food in the world. The best memories are of the friends who shared these experiences and have remained close throughout our lives.
One final connection I should mention is that between the Lane and Landis families. We overlapped for a few months in Jeddah, in 1961, little knowing that the youngest Lane daughter would marry the youngest Landis lad.
Betsy Decherd Lane
July 2020