Thursday, June 2, 2022

Building the Ainab houses

 My grandfather, Leslie Leavitt, wrote an autobiography written for his family.  It's quite detailed and covers his life from his early days in New Hampshire, through Dartmouth College, and on to what was then Syria and Beirut (traveling to Syria, upon graduation from Dartmouth, he met my grandmother for the first time on the Galata Bridge in Istanbul; she also was headed to Beirut).  He taught at the Syrian Protestant College's Prep School (later International College) and then was head of IC until his retirement in 1960, when he and my grandmother (Margaret Bliss Leavitt) returned to the States, buying a house in Wellesley.  They lived there until their deaths in the 1980's.

There has been a lot of discussion of the building of the houses in Ainab.  Here is an extract from my grandfather's autobiography on that subject (I believe this is set in 1932/1933):
     "As the summers in Beirut are quite hot and sticky, those who can make every effort to escape to the cool of the mountain villages, returning to their work in Beirut as frequently as required.  During our first few years, our family took advantage of various opportunities and tried out, so to speak, Shweir, Brummana, 'Aleih and Shemlan.  None of these villages appealed particularly, so we began to look elsewhere, together with some of our closest friends.  The result: the Closes, Crawfords, Kerrs, Dodds and Leavitts purchased a lovely pine forest above the village of Ainab: 2700 feet above sea-level, and some 40 minutes by car from Beirut.  Our next step was to divide the property into five portions, which we did in such a way that each family pretty much got its first choice.
     "Next came the drawing up of plans for our houses and contracting with local builders to have them built...from stone found in abundance nearby.  This was followed by the building of a road up from the village of Ainab, the building of a joint wash house, and a tennis court.  Our water came from the sky, off the roof and down into a cistern, in our case a cistern under the outdoor dining room.  From there it was pumped up into a barrel under the eaves.  Our light was supplied by pressure lanterns, our cooking was done over kerosene stoves or "puffers."  In addition to our master bedroom, guest room, and porch, we had a wooden "shack" where the boys slept, and another for the maids.  The whole outfit was small, simple, adequate...and Oh! so nice.  I am certain that every member of the Leavitt family will testify that our summer home, costing only a few thousand dollars, was a joy, a treasure that even today holds a warm place in our hearts and memories.
     "I shall have occasion to speak of our Ainab experiences many times as the years pass by, but during those early years when all four children were with us, they are especially memorable.  Of events in the grove, one recalls the children making cement roads for their toy vehicles...the gathering, cracking and eating of pine nuts (snobar)...the evening group "sings" by the tennis court, on which occasions Harold Close sang a comic song...rides for the children on the donkey that brought us food supplies.  Outside the grove, there were trips...1) to the ever-popular Tom Sawyer's Pool down in the deep valley to the east of our mountain, or 2) to the rock formations and the stream at the Fizur below the village of 'Aleih, or 3) to the Boy Scout Camp at Jisr-el-Kadi down the steep road below Munzerain."
photo of the Leavitt house


1960 watercolor painting of the Leavitt house by Juanita Soghikian (that's me in front of the house, by the lavender bush)






Steve Peters
Princeton, NJ


Home movies from Leslie Leavitt

I've inherited several home movies from my grandparents, Leslie and Meg Leavitt, which I had digitized some years ago.  I've just uploaded them to YouTube.

The first is from 1933 (!) and includes scenes from a baseball game at the Dormans' house in Shemlan; Leavitt family scenes with my mother Marga Peters and her sister Helen (Hayin) Campbell, along with brothers Howard and Dan Leavitt; playing on a paddle board in Beirut; the Leavitt family at their summer house in Brummana (before their house in Ainab was built).  I can recognize members of the Leavitt family but not anyone else.

https://youtu.be/1tzEDmIkazQ


The second is from 1947, when Dan and Lois Leavitt visited Lebanon (I believe this was their first visit after getting married in the States).  Included here are views of the coast and Beirut, as well as surrounding countryside, from Ainab; much-anticipated (by this blog community) scenes of tennis games; Lois Leavitt riding on a donkey; another baseball game at Shemlan; and a big family dinner; and finally Marga and Hayin flying back to the States.

https://youtu.be/0Dkkqe19pdk

I don't believe my grandfather took all of the movies, as he appears in many of the scenes, but I have no idea who else did, and I'm not sure how he came to possess these movies.


-Steve Peters

Princeton, NJ

stevepeters1@hotmail.com

________________________________________

a note from Alice Nicolson (June 3, 2022)

a.taxonomy@gmail.com


what a treat to see these movies! The early one gives the feeling of those baseball games at the Dormans’ in Chemlan, though before my time. The 1947 film was really great - my brother Crif, having just graduated from Mr. Hermon, was home for the summer, playing tennis with other “kids” home from school or college. I remember how thrilling and romantic it was to have the first young married couple among the children of the hilltop returning. In addition to the Leavitt girls and boys, I spotted Dottie Kerr playing tennis, and I think Mac batting at the baseball game. There was a brief visit to Beit Crawford to visit Archie, who had broken his pelvis in a car accident and was in a body cast and hospital bed for a while, but sitting in a chair in the film. Also at the tennis court were my West cousins, Dorothy and perhaps Bill, plus daughter Liz and son Allen. Particularly wonderful for me was glimpses of Hughie Dodd and an unforgettable shot of the three little pigs, Hugh, Doug and me, and a later one of Doug and me. I think that may have been the last summer the Dodds were at Ainab. Also, as Lois is riding the donkey, a glimpse of Hehni, our wonderful grocery deliverer, who went ofer to Souk el Gharb most mornings to buy our food orders and bring them up to the hilltop on his donkey. He lived in Ainab and once took some of us down in the early morning to watch his mother make flatbread on the dome-like metal sajj over a fire of pine needles and twigs, He was an assistant at the AUB pharmacy, I believe, and spoke very good english and was very kind and patient with us kids. (There was also a milkman, who had a larger donkey - or was it a mule? -  and would come up with metal cans of fresh milk which had to be boiled before use so was not very tasty, but made wonderful leban.)

I think I was the youngest of the original hilltop kids, but surely there are still a few others still around who remember these things?