This blog was started by Joshua Landis in 2015 to commemorate the American community in Lebanon and particularly of Ainab. He grew up in this hilltop community that was started in 1932-33 by five American University of Beirut families: the Dodd, Close, Leavitt, Kerr, and Crawford families. Later families included: Landis, Crow, Dodge, Eddy, Scott, Gordon and Kennedy. Other families who summered in Shemlan, just below Ainab, include: Dorman, Stoltzfus, Smith, Van Dyck.
Saturday, December 5, 2015
Pine House: Bruce Dodd, Peter Dodd, Molly Crawford, Malcolm Kerr, Bruce Dodd
From Bruce Dodd: "Pine house constructed by Dorothy Kerr, Molly Crawford, Malcolm and myself. When we finished building the House we had to return the pine needles to their original locations."
From L to R: Peter, Molly, Dorothy, Malcolm, Bruce, and ?
Ruffians of the 1930s
Ruffians of the 1930s: Left to Right -
Back row: Marjo Ritscher, Marga Leavitt, Wally Close, Marion Kerr, Dan Leavitt, Ann Ritscher, Art Close, Howard Leavitt.
Front row: Bruce Dodd, Johnnie Ritscher, Peter Dodd, Helen Leavitt, Ray Close, Helen Ritscher, Dorothy & Malcolm Kerr.
Ann Kerr with paintings of Stanley's vineyard. 1958.
Ann Kerr with her paintings of geraniums and grapes from Stanley's vineyard, painted in 1958. Now hanging up in her house (as you can see, the bathroom!). She is holding her book, Painting the Middle East, opened to a page with a picture of her painting these pictures.
Stanley Kerr's painting of the Kerr house
And Stanley Kerr's painting of the Kerr house, which is now hanging in Ann Kerr's house (her bedroom - she seems to have them all!)
Mary Eddy's painting of the Kerr House
Here's Mary Eddy's painting of the Kerr House. The chaise longue on the left was purchased by Elsa and made by a school for the blind - in Baysur? The painting is now hanging in Ann Kerr's house (middle guest bedroom!)
Saturday, October 17, 2015
Memories from a 2004 trip with Betsy Decherd Lane, by Helen Leavitt Campbell
Thursday Betsy and I took a taxi to Ainab and back. We chose the driver
who’d taken us to the cemetery. He was so nice, somewhat educated and
unobtrusive.
Takes no time to get to Ainab, our road is paved and has same
configurations, first part doesn’t seem as steep, the last push seemed very
steep.
Looking out to table mountain and the path to Shemlan you see many
houses in cut stone or in concrete and Table mtn. is partially forested. Our grove is skimpier with trees, tennis court grassed and neglected. All
properties are fenced in barbed wire or stone. Crawford and Dodd house in good
shape and occupied. Crawfords have a big iron gate closing it off. A caretaker
for that house came out and without our asking took us on obscure paths all
around each property. Kerrs and Closes totally neglected and in severe
disrepair. Our house is the only one non-existent. The rock is there and we
located a piece of ceramic tile in the ground that had to be the maids toilet.
Cistern in place, open and half full. I took pictures of everything. Was it sad
to see it? I didn’t feel much of anything except remembering the past and the
good times growing up there. So it had changed and I accepted that. Didn’t want
to explore to find the cement roads because the caretaker went out of his way
to show us around. Definitely worth that second trip to Ainab because without someone to take us around, I wouldn’t
have wanted to trespass. Standing at the car place and looking toward the big
tree is a huge mansion in cut stone, long driveway, gated and guarded: it’s
between Dodds and Kerrs but half way to big tree.
Leavitt house Remnants |
Leavitt house cistern and dining room |
View of new houses from Leavitt house Close house |
Kerr house |
Villa between Dodd and Kerr houses
|
Entrance to Crawford house (looking toward tennis courts), Arab family in residence |
Crawford garden |
Parking lot & tennis court |
Sunday, October 4, 2015
Helen Leavitt Campbell's response to Dorothy Kerr's Recollections
Dear Dottie, Greetings after how many years? A Northfield reunion I think. I am enclosing memories of our childhood and my teenage years in Ainab, imagining that most of you will have similiar recalls...The years start in 1934 and for me go to 1945 and 1947 and a summer of 1959 when Marga and I spent two months with my parents and our collective kids. We had our house and Marga's family rented the Close house.
Here are some memories...Shouts of "Car..car " when visitors drove up our steep roadway and we raced from our homes to reach the parking lot before the car...cracking snobars...climbing trees...Big TREE...cement roads built by our big brothers...tennis for all and competitive matches...Sardines after dark with Mr. Dodd...campfires and Sunday sings with the adults...endless games of Monopoly and other board and card games...family picnics to the outer groves, lahm mishwe, majedra and watermelon on the menu...360 degree view from the top of the hill behind the Dodd house.and playing on those rocks....all day hikes to Tom Sawyer, the Jisr and Fizur for swims...Saturday hikes over the Hills to Shemlan and baseball...walking the grove path at night with lantern and flashlight...gorgeous views of Beirut from the Close house...pumping chore to bring water from the cistern to a tank in the attic...collecting shrapnel on the mountainside from British warships shelling.the Shouf mountains.during WW ll...sleeping in the shack with Marga along with katydids that jumped on our mosquito netting...and I hated the spiders on the walls!!!
How safe and independent we felt during those summers and what an amazing and beloved community'. I hope you all can relate to some or all of this. Best to all you Ainabies. Helen Leavitt Campbell.
Ainab kids with Virginie (?), 1934?
L to R: Marga & Helen Leavitt, Peter & Bruce Dodd, ? , Ray Close
Summer vegetables, from the Dodd family archives
Donkey delivery was the next best thing (after cars)
L to R: Garabed, Molly Crawford, Bruce & Peter Dodd
Wednesday, September 30, 2015
Ann and Matthew Gordon remember Ainab 1967 to 1975
Ann Gordon
When I think of Ainab, and I often
do, I think first of all of the fine people, included in this great project
that good Joshua has fashioned, whom I met and mingled with up there. The fun,
great walks up the hills, one very memorable one with Ray Close leading the way
to the top for pancakes over a fire, watching the sunrise! As I remember we
cooked 200!
And of course the tennis, Malcolm
and David Dodges’ first serves, plus Joan Landis’s rather eccentric but
effective one. The tennis was great, funny but a wonderful mixture of old and
young. I love the image of Nina selling watermelon slices, how reviving those
watermelon slices were for us sweating players.
What a place for the children of
all ages, the concrete roads built for the miniature cars and trucks. The games
on the court, rover-red-rover and lots of others. And wandering down to the
village for a cold soda.
Victoria kept her horse there one
summer, tethered to a tree. He escaped once, but was caught by Ralph Crow who
calmly put his arms around Nar and led him back.
The bridge! not brilliant, but full
of laughs, sometimes wondering if Archie would give us a splash half way
through. The food and drinks were special, no doubt because of the mountain
air. We all enjoyed guests coming up for a meal and a break from hot
Beirut.
We Gordons had the Leavitt house
from about ‘67 to ‘75. And thoroughly enjoyed Landises, Kerrs, Crows, Kennedys,
Dodds, Scotts Archie, and various other ex-Ainabis who visited. We all enjoyed
knowing Mary Eddy. She had such good stories. And was an elegant member of the
hillltop.
I was shaken when I saw in 2001
that nothing was left of our house but a concrete slab. I never knew whether it
was bombed or what happened to it.
But we are so lucky to have had
that magical place and all the memories it has evoked for over 80 years. And
bless this blog.
AINAB (by Matthew Gordon)
Hills that smelled of warm thyme
The pink and peach light of the late afternoons
The concord grapes: squeeze, the rush of thick sweetness and
broken seed
The treehouse, flashlight game beneath the Dodge house, the
volleyball games; best of all, kick-the-can.
Jisr al-Qadi: was there ever better swimming?
The tangle of car roads, oh, the car roads: why so
fascinating?
The tennis matches; one fierce net exchange with my father
remains fixed in my memory. And blessed Joan’s serve, the giggles.
And the people, a great swirl of faces, names, episodes. Ted
Kennedy on French horn! And Mary Eddy’s niece or granddaughter (what was her
name?), she took us on a long hike and much further across the hills than I had
known. And Ken Crow back from India at some point (he also played me the 45 rpm
version of “Paperback Writer” and spoke at length of why it mattered).
Concrete slab indeed. The Scotts lived in the house at one
point, during one invasion from the south or another, and I believe it was a
nervous Israeli soldier who shot up the roof (with US-provided ammunition?). I
don’t recall who told me, but he or she described it as the beginning of the
end for the house.
We’ve attached a watercolor of the Gordon family on our
porch (done by Ann Osborne, August 1969).
Those were the days my friends.
Sunday, September 27, 2015
Bread from Stones: The Middle East and the Making of Modern Humanitarianism - UC Press 2015 - NER, Marash, Kerr, AUB, AUH
My friend and colleague Josh Landis suggested that the people on this list might like to learn more about my recent book on the role of NER, AUB, the Beirut-based American Red Cross, Kerrs, Ray Travis, Antoura, Dodges in the formation of Modern humanitarianism, relief and development.
Bread from Stones: The Middle East and the Making of Modern Humanitarianism (Oakland: University of California Press, 2015) follows the international NGO movement in the Eastern Mediterranean during and after WWI to address the suffering caused by the Great Syrian Famine; and post-war efforts to help the Armenians after the genocide resettle in So. Anatolia and then move again back to Syria and Lebanon.
The first chapter is online at my Academia.edu page. This is its opening paragraph:
This was at times a very hard book to write, especially as I see so much of what is happening now as a reflection of what happened then; as well as the same international indifference to suffering.
Something I wrote in my preface that I'm sure many of you also feel:
I wrote this book as the contemporary “Middle East” [has] descended into a humanitarian disaster that, in its degree of suffering and international indifference, resembles the one that occurred during and following World War I. Historians must not draw too many parallels between the past and the present, but as I have looked out across the region over the last few years, I see in the immense refugee flows, human trafficking, sexual violence, and genocide of the current wars in Syria and Iraq echoes of a hundred years ago. Those echoes resound across the same territories of inhumanity and humanitarian response, especially now in the city of Aleppo, which has been subjected to the kinds of unceasing urban violence reminiscent of Madrid in the 1930s or Sarajevo in the 1990s; at the time of this writing the city seems poised to fall into the hands of the most violent of Islamist extremists, whose pitiless and cruel modern ideology has already led to the destruction through genocide of ancient non-Muslim communities in northern Iraq and caused utter misery for countless Muslims throughout the region.
Arda and Aram say: Buy my Baba's book!
I would also encourage you to take a look at a book I helped edit: Karnig Panian's Goodbye Antoura: A Genocide Orphan's Memoir (Palo Alto: Stanford University Press, 2015). It chronicles Panian's life during the genocide and then his placement at an Ottoman orphanage at Antoura where he faced forced Turkification - think American Indian boarding schools. It also tells of his liberation by AUB faculty and later care by NER. Panian was among those orphans returned to Aintab in the company of NER's Ray Travis, who then had to flee again with the establishment of the Republic of Turkey.
It's a very moving book and tells the story from the other side of the American relief effort.
Please let me know if you have any questions about the work. Below is my UC Davis contact information.
Keith David Watenpaugh
Associate Professor
Human Rights Studies
University of California, Davis
kwatenpaugh@ucdavis.edu
(530) 574-0815
Bread from Stones: The Middle East and the Making of Modern Humanitarianism (Oakland: University of California Press, 2015) follows the international NGO movement in the Eastern Mediterranean during and after WWI to address the suffering caused by the Great Syrian Famine; and post-war efforts to help the Armenians after the genocide resettle in So. Anatolia and then move again back to Syria and Lebanon.
The first chapter is online at my Academia.edu page. This is its opening paragraph:
Marash, Anatolia, February 9, 1920. As the Armenians of Marash fled their city in the face of civil war and the certainty of massacre, a twenty-three-year-old American Near East Relief (NER) official, Stanley E. Kerr, made the decision to stay behind in the organization’s headquarters to care for the hundreds of children and elderly who could not travel. He was one of a tiny handful of Americans who remained in the war-torn city as other relief workers evacuated with the able-bodied and the retreating French army. “Tonight,” Kerr wrote to his parents back home in Philadelphia, “the most bitter cold of all this winter….Our orphans, old women and men will remain in our compounds….Perhaps by remaining here we can protect the remaining Armenians from massacre….We are in great danger, but not without hope….No matter what happens remember that I am ready to make any sacrifice even death.” For the young American, this was his first real encounter with the full measure of the horrors facing the civilian population of the Eastern Mediterranean in the wake of the “war to end war.” For the Armenians of Marash, the massacres, dispossession, and exile they faced that night came only at the end of a generation of war, communal violence, genocide, famine, and disease that had left a quarter of the Ottoman state’s subjects dead and millions displaced: in the Balkans and the Caucasus Muslim refugees fled advancing European armies; Ottoman Armenians who had survived state-sponsored efforts to destroy them as a people filled camps and shantytowns scattered along the outskirts of the major cities of the Levant; and Greeks and Turks on the “wrong” sides of new international borders would be “exchanged”—a euphemism for internationally sanctioned dispossession and forced migration—as nation-states emerged from the ashes of empire.
This was at times a very hard book to write, especially as I see so much of what is happening now as a reflection of what happened then; as well as the same international indifference to suffering.
Something I wrote in my preface that I'm sure many of you also feel:
I wrote this book as the contemporary “Middle East” [has] descended into a humanitarian disaster that, in its degree of suffering and international indifference, resembles the one that occurred during and following World War I. Historians must not draw too many parallels between the past and the present, but as I have looked out across the region over the last few years, I see in the immense refugee flows, human trafficking, sexual violence, and genocide of the current wars in Syria and Iraq echoes of a hundred years ago. Those echoes resound across the same territories of inhumanity and humanitarian response, especially now in the city of Aleppo, which has been subjected to the kinds of unceasing urban violence reminiscent of Madrid in the 1930s or Sarajevo in the 1990s; at the time of this writing the city seems poised to fall into the hands of the most violent of Islamist extremists, whose pitiless and cruel modern ideology has already led to the destruction through genocide of ancient non-Muslim communities in northern Iraq and caused utter misery for countless Muslims throughout the region.
Arda and Aram say: Buy my Baba's book!
I would also encourage you to take a look at a book I helped edit: Karnig Panian's Goodbye Antoura: A Genocide Orphan's Memoir (Palo Alto: Stanford University Press, 2015). It chronicles Panian's life during the genocide and then his placement at an Ottoman orphanage at Antoura where he faced forced Turkification - think American Indian boarding schools. It also tells of his liberation by AUB faculty and later care by NER. Panian was among those orphans returned to Aintab in the company of NER's Ray Travis, who then had to flee again with the establishment of the Republic of Turkey.
It's a very moving book and tells the story from the other side of the American relief effort.
Please let me know if you have any questions about the work. Below is my UC Davis contact information.
Keith David Watenpaugh
Associate Professor
Human Rights Studies
University of California, Davis
kwatenpaugh@ucdavis.edu
(530) 574-0815
Director, UC Davis Human Rights Initiative & Human Rights Minor
President, Syrian Studies Association (2014-2016)
The year the Ainab property was acquired
Dorothy Kerr Jessup mentions that her parents - Stanley and Elsa Kerr - were on sabbatical in the US the year the Ainab property was purchased. I think this photo of them was taken that year - though I always assumed it had been taken in Ainab!
Dodd Photos of Ainab in the 1930s 1
Identified back row, L to R: Wally & Helen Ritscher, Dora & Harold Close, Elsa & Stan Kerr
Others L to R: Stuart Dodd, Archie & Mary Crawford. ca. 1939
Left to Right: Bruce Dodd, John Ritscher, Ray Close, Peter Dodd, Helen Ritcher, Dottie Kerr, Helen Leavitt, Malcom Kerr. 1936
Dodd Photos of Ainab in the 1930s 2
Ainab tennis courts, 1940. Left to Right -
Back row: Marjo Ritscher, Marga Leavitt, Wally Close, Marion Kerr, Dan Leavitt, Ann Ritscher, Art Close, Howard Leavitt.
Betty Dodd with Hugh, 1936. Dodd/Dodge house, Ainab.
Original Dodd house, 1933, before the roof blew off. Reportedly, it landed on the Crawford property, contents of the attic intact, including a set of Life magazines! Dodds were on furlough and missed the excitement.
Ain Ksour (near Bludan). 1939?
Back row L to R: Mary Crawford, Stuart dodd, Liz, Alan, and David West
Front row: Bill West, Johnny Crawford, Molly Crawford, Peter Dodd
Dodd/Dodge house, Ainab. Betty, Peter & Bruce Dodd
Ainab tennis courts. Peter Dodd and Johnny Crawford.
The Origins of Ainab in 1932-33 as recollected by Dorothy Kerr Jessup
There are so many questions I would like to ask about the origins
of the property. I can only offer bits and pieces:
I grew up in Lebanon in the 1930’s and 40’s, and think often of Ainab as my favorite place in the world.
I remember being told the story about how the property was first found and purchased by the five young AUB faculty families, but I was so young at the time, I didn’t pay much attention to details. All I know is that they bought the property around the time my father was on sabbatical in the US, and that would have been 1932-33. Their basic concept was an arrangement of shared, community property, with each family owning it’s individual property and home surrounding a community space, which was, of course, to be a Tennis Court, along with a space for socializing, singing, story telling and bonfires. I don’t know how our parents managed to decide amicably who would get the lot with the best view, but somehow they managed to make that decision, and everyone seemed quite pleased with the outcome.
The Closes had the house with the panoramic view of Beirut, the sea beyond, and the sunsets.
The Dodds built their house close to the trails that climbed the mountain behind our property, and, as I mentioned before, made the house so high that they got marvelous views from a very high porch.
The Leavitts and Crawfords had nice views of the Ainab valley.
And our parents (the Kerrs) said what they wanted most was the lot with the most privacy. So the lot they chose was on the side of the Ainab hilltop away from all the views, but with a nice vista below of an evergreen forest where the way-wees (jackals) howled at night. We used to lie in our shack at night listening to them and other sounds from the forest, but once we got used to them, we kind of liked that. Our father built a vineyard on the land just below the house and above the forest, with the help of Arab villagers. So that all provided a very different, lovely setting.
I grew up in Lebanon in the 1930’s and 40’s, and think often of Ainab as my favorite place in the world.
I
was born Dorothy Kerr, Malcolm Kerr’s sister, and Anne’s sister in
law. We built our house there in the 1930’s along with the Dodds,
Closes, Leavitt’s and Crawfords. When
our parents retired and came back to the US, the original houses were
sold to new owners. Ours was sold to the Crows, whom I never met, but
see someone by that name listed among those receiving this message. Sad to say, none of the Dodd children are
still living, and a good many of the others as well, but I’m still in
touch with Molly Crawford and may be able to find Ray Close (we’re all
in our eighties now.) My brother Doug Kerr is the only other one still
alive in our family, from our generation.
I remember being told the story about how the property was first found and purchased by the five young AUB faculty families, but I was so young at the time, I didn’t pay much attention to details. All I know is that they bought the property around the time my father was on sabbatical in the US, and that would have been 1932-33. Their basic concept was an arrangement of shared, community property, with each family owning it’s individual property and home surrounding a community space, which was, of course, to be a Tennis Court, along with a space for socializing, singing, story telling and bonfires. I don’t know how our parents managed to decide amicably who would get the lot with the best view, but somehow they managed to make that decision, and everyone seemed quite pleased with the outcome.
The Closes had the house with the panoramic view of Beirut, the sea beyond, and the sunsets.
The Dodds built their house close to the trails that climbed the mountain behind our property, and, as I mentioned before, made the house so high that they got marvelous views from a very high porch.
The Leavitts and Crawfords had nice views of the Ainab valley.
And our parents (the Kerrs) said what they wanted most was the lot with the most privacy. So the lot they chose was on the side of the Ainab hilltop away from all the views, but with a nice vista below of an evergreen forest where the way-wees (jackals) howled at night. We used to lie in our shack at night listening to them and other sounds from the forest, but once we got used to them, we kind of liked that. Our father built a vineyard on the land just below the house and above the forest, with the help of Arab villagers. So that all provided a very different, lovely setting.
Our house was the last one to be built, and we moved in when I was
six (around 1936). I remember being very impressed watching the Arab
movers carrying our furniture, without the help of any equipment or
animals. One man carried a large piano on his back
for quite some distance, from the top of the hill where the moving van
was parked, down quite a long path to the house, never stopping to rest.
The tennis court and community space hadn’t been developed yet, but
that construction began during the first summer, with a crew of Arab
workers, and that was an amazingly exciting period for us children. For
reasons I can’t explain, there was a lot of
blasting involved, with dynamite (I can’t remember the word in
Arabic). Every time the workers were about to set off the dynamite,
they’d call out
very loudly, and we’d all run as fast as we could to get as far
away as possible. In retrospect, I wonder if our parents had any
doubts for our safety, but I remember it only as being vey exciting!
After they’d cleared the ground and leveled it
(very carefully, I’m sure, for all of our fathers were devout tennis
players) they paved it.
(Whether they laid a base before the asphalt, I
couldn’t say, but maybe Ray remembers.) I believe there was some
discussion at an earlier point about whether the
surface should have been clay instead, but I’m pretty sure the reason
for asphalt was that it would be very low maintenance, and that was a
big consideration given that the Arab villagers in Ainab and Beysour
were not at all likely to have had any experience
in maintaining tennis courts! I don’t know, and wonder if anyone
does, whether our parents realized at the time that asphalt would
probably crack and heave, if the ground below it ever froze. But if
they hadn’t, I don’t recall anyone ever complaining about
that crazy surface in later years. Somehow, those cracks and humps and
bumps just seemed to be taken for granted, as an added to the challenge
of the game, in the years I played tennis there. Others can comment on
their own experience and reactions in future
years) .
I’ll have other stories to tell in the future about our
various childhood (group) adventures, maybe little by little. Dorothy
Saturday, September 26, 2015
1976 Construction underway at former Kerr house
Nora Kennedy in Sept 2015: "Here are some photographs of the Kerr - Crow - Kennedy house taken in 2011. It was extremely moving to be there again. I heard recently from a friend of a friend that one or some of the houses are for sale..."
Dodd/Dodge house above, Kerr/Kennedy house below
From Dorothy Kerr Jessup to Nora Kennedy - Sept 2015
Hello to Nora and all the rest of you: It was moving to me, too to see these photos of our much beloved Ainab house. I haven't been back there since 1951, and have been wondering a lot lately what it must look like now. Your family must have lived in our house at some point after my parents (the Kerrs) sold it to the Crows, if I remember correctly. I'd love to see more photos of it. (For the rest of you, the Kerr house was the one with the arches in one of the photos, and stairs to the roof in another. The other (tall house) that looks like a castle was the Dodd's house. My family lived in it the year our own house was being built, while the Dodds were away on sabbatical. It used to have a big porch on top, with a brown wooden attic above, but the attic-roof blew off one stormy winter. So when the family rebuilt the upper part, Stewart Dodd decided to put his cistern up there instead, so they wouldn't have to pump water. I never heard for sure how well that actually worked, but at least the top didn't blow off again. I gather it's still standing. [end]
1976? Construction underway to expand the Kennedy (former Kerr) house to
enable Mary Helen and Ted to live there all year round, which they did
from 1980 to 1984 (I think).
1977 after a fire
1977, May. Former Kerr property. Ted Kennedy looking at the result of a forest fire. I am not sure if this was the cause of the disappearance of the big cabin, whose foundation is visible, or if that occurred when the house was occupied by militias (PPS and/or Fateh) during the first phase of the civil war (1975-9176).
Friday, September 25, 2015
Kerr Farewell 1970
Here we are saying farewell after the fabulous summer of 1970, with our Volkswagen camper that would take us to Aix-en-Provence for the year. That was the summer of singing at the tops of our lungs in a tree house that I seem to remember being near the Kerr/Kennedy house. Lots of Gordon memories, maybe because we were living nearby in the Eddy house: David singing Edelweiss by the campfire, sleeping in the VW one night with Melissa Dodge and Vicky Gordon. The kind of freedom we children had was intoxicating, though lots of idyllic memories involved our parents too. On a midnight walk along the water pipe, Ann Gordon at a clearing said to me, 'look up at the full moon, and you can see two people kissing.' I always look for that in a full moon to this day, and it always reminds me of Ann, and of that summer.
Monday, September 21, 2015
Magical places to sleep
There has never been anywhere as magical to sleep as an Ainab cabin - mosquito nets, candle lanterns and all.
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