Thursday, June 2, 2022

Building the Ainab houses

 My grandfather, Leslie Leavitt, wrote an autobiography written for his family.  It's quite detailed and covers his life from his early days in New Hampshire, through Dartmouth College, and on to what was then Syria and Beirut (traveling to Syria, upon graduation from Dartmouth, he met my grandmother for the first time on the Galata Bridge in Istanbul; she also was headed to Beirut).  He taught at the Syrian Protestant College's Prep School (later International College) and then was head of IC until his retirement in 1960, when he and my grandmother (Margaret Bliss Leavitt) returned to the States, buying a house in Wellesley.  They lived there until their deaths in the 1980's.

There has been a lot of discussion of the building of the houses in Ainab.  Here is an extract from my grandfather's autobiography on that subject (I believe this is set in 1932/1933):
     "As the summers in Beirut are quite hot and sticky, those who can make every effort to escape to the cool of the mountain villages, returning to their work in Beirut as frequently as required.  During our first few years, our family took advantage of various opportunities and tried out, so to speak, Shweir, Brummana, 'Aleih and Shemlan.  None of these villages appealed particularly, so we began to look elsewhere, together with some of our closest friends.  The result: the Closes, Crawfords, Kerrs, Dodds and Leavitts purchased a lovely pine forest above the village of Ainab: 2700 feet above sea-level, and some 40 minutes by car from Beirut.  Our next step was to divide the property into five portions, which we did in such a way that each family pretty much got its first choice.
     "Next came the drawing up of plans for our houses and contracting with local builders to have them built...from stone found in abundance nearby.  This was followed by the building of a road up from the village of Ainab, the building of a joint wash house, and a tennis court.  Our water came from the sky, off the roof and down into a cistern, in our case a cistern under the outdoor dining room.  From there it was pumped up into a barrel under the eaves.  Our light was supplied by pressure lanterns, our cooking was done over kerosene stoves or "puffers."  In addition to our master bedroom, guest room, and porch, we had a wooden "shack" where the boys slept, and another for the maids.  The whole outfit was small, simple, adequate...and Oh! so nice.  I am certain that every member of the Leavitt family will testify that our summer home, costing only a few thousand dollars, was a joy, a treasure that even today holds a warm place in our hearts and memories.
     "I shall have occasion to speak of our Ainab experiences many times as the years pass by, but during those early years when all four children were with us, they are especially memorable.  Of events in the grove, one recalls the children making cement roads for their toy vehicles...the gathering, cracking and eating of pine nuts (snobar)...the evening group "sings" by the tennis court, on which occasions Harold Close sang a comic song...rides for the children on the donkey that brought us food supplies.  Outside the grove, there were trips...1) to the ever-popular Tom Sawyer's Pool down in the deep valley to the east of our mountain, or 2) to the rock formations and the stream at the Fizur below the village of 'Aleih, or 3) to the Boy Scout Camp at Jisr-el-Kadi down the steep road below Munzerain."
photo of the Leavitt house


1960 watercolor painting of the Leavitt house by Juanita Soghikian (that's me in front of the house, by the lavender bush)






Steve Peters
Princeton, NJ


Home movies from Leslie Leavitt

I've inherited several home movies from my grandparents, Leslie and Meg Leavitt, which I had digitized some years ago.  I've just uploaded them to YouTube.

The first is from 1933 (!) and includes scenes from a baseball game at the Dormans' house in Shemlan; Leavitt family scenes with my mother Marga Peters and her sister Helen (Hayin) Campbell, along with brothers Howard and Dan Leavitt; playing on a paddle board in Beirut; the Leavitt family at their summer house in Brummana (before their house in Ainab was built).  I can recognize members of the Leavitt family but not anyone else.

https://youtu.be/1tzEDmIkazQ


The second is from 1947, when Dan and Lois Leavitt visited Lebanon (I believe this was their first visit after getting married in the States).  Included here are views of the coast and Beirut, as well as surrounding countryside, from Ainab; much-anticipated (by this blog community) scenes of tennis games; Lois Leavitt riding on a donkey; another baseball game at Shemlan; and a big family dinner; and finally Marga and Hayin flying back to the States.

https://youtu.be/0Dkkqe19pdk

I don't believe my grandfather took all of the movies, as he appears in many of the scenes, but I have no idea who else did, and I'm not sure how he came to possess these movies.


-Steve Peters

Princeton, NJ

stevepeters1@hotmail.com

________________________________________

a note from Alice Nicolson (June 3, 2022)

a.taxonomy@gmail.com


what a treat to see these movies! The early one gives the feeling of those baseball games at the Dormans’ in Chemlan, though before my time. The 1947 film was really great - my brother Crif, having just graduated from Mr. Hermon, was home for the summer, playing tennis with other “kids” home from school or college. I remember how thrilling and romantic it was to have the first young married couple among the children of the hilltop returning. In addition to the Leavitt girls and boys, I spotted Dottie Kerr playing tennis, and I think Mac batting at the baseball game. There was a brief visit to Beit Crawford to visit Archie, who had broken his pelvis in a car accident and was in a body cast and hospital bed for a while, but sitting in a chair in the film. Also at the tennis court were my West cousins, Dorothy and perhaps Bill, plus daughter Liz and son Allen. Particularly wonderful for me was glimpses of Hughie Dodd and an unforgettable shot of the three little pigs, Hugh, Doug and me, and a later one of Doug and me. I think that may have been the last summer the Dodds were at Ainab. Also, as Lois is riding the donkey, a glimpse of Hehni, our wonderful grocery deliverer, who went ofer to Souk el Gharb most mornings to buy our food orders and bring them up to the hilltop on his donkey. He lived in Ainab and once took some of us down in the early morning to watch his mother make flatbread on the dome-like metal sajj over a fire of pine needles and twigs, He was an assistant at the AUB pharmacy, I believe, and spoke very good english and was very kind and patient with us kids. (There was also a milkman, who had a larger donkey - or was it a mule? -  and would come up with metal cans of fresh milk which had to be boiled before use so was not very tasty, but made wonderful leban.)

I think I was the youngest of the original hilltop kids, but surely there are still a few others still around who remember these things?

Monday, May 23, 2022

Ainab Visit 2022 by Julia Costello, granddaughter of Bill and Mary Eddy

 
Ainab Visit, 13 April 2022
By Julia Costello, granddaughter of Bill and Mary Eddy 


During my recent visit, Leila Badre – the recently retired Director of the AUB Museum -- arranged for a wonderful trip to Ainab with our friend Nour (Minnie) Majdalany. Leila, Minnie, and I have been friends since the early 1970s when I spent several years working on archaeology projects in Lebanon; I have returned regularly since. 

View of Beirut from the Ainab hilltop where the American houses were built (photo by Julia Costello 2022)

Leila came to Ainab during Mary Eddy’s last summer there in 1973, and Minnie had gone up with me about 15 years ago. Recently, Leila connected with Shadia Shaar, a Druze woman from the village of Ainab, who was our guide and informant and was also commissioned to provide us with a sumptuous lunch at her village home. Her wide lawn was once the location of a nightclub where singers would perform on a small stage! 

Shadia Shaar, a Druze woman from the village of Ainab, with Nour (Minnie) Majdalani in front of the Dodd/Dodge House 2022



The complex of American houses on the hilltop above the village is an historic landmark in Ainab, variously referred to as the American Forest, American Hill, and American Mountain (Jebel American). Shadia (who appeared to be about 60) said she once played on the tennis court at the complex when she was 12 years old. 

View of the hilltop. The houses in the distance have been built since the civil war (photo thanks to Julia Costello)

Visiting the remaining houses – known for their last occupants as the Eddy, Crow, Dodge, and Close houses (the Gordon house is gone)– was confusing as the land has been divided up and now each old dwelling is accessed by a different road from a different direction. The land between is grown over with trees and brush so it was hard to get my bearings. Additionally, all the houses have had renovations since I was last there in 1974, with additions of side rooms, porches, and upper stories. 

Shadia identified them as I took photos (attached) and scribbled notes, but these may need to be corrected by those who know better. A map would certainly be useful. The tennis court is just a flat spot and I could not see any of the small toy-car roads that were built into the now-overgrown rock outcroppings. Shadia knew the names of the American families and said the village had a list somewhere of everyone who had lived there. She reported the belief that when the Americans arrived in the 1930s “they gave life to Ainab.” 
Crows' "new" Crow's New House below the Eddy House.
 (photo by Julia Costello)

Close House in 1930s with Mr. & Mrs. Close standing in front. The Close house had the dramatic view of Beirut. (Photo provided by Ken Close)

Villagers had helped build the houses, provide groceries, and deliver mail. Her grandfather supplied stones for the Close house. 

Grandmothers and mothers of current town residents cooked and cleaned for the families and helped take care of the children. There were other foreigners in town—English, French, and German (there was a German language institute)—but, Shadia believed, “Americans were the most intelligent.” 

Eddy House, according to Bayard Dodge
Kerr/Kennedy House

Shadia recounted that the Americans paid particular attention to the village children and took the brightest to Beirut, seeing them through AUB with no fees charged. I asked what became of these favored children. She noted Dr. Kamal Chaar, an osteologist and uncle on her father’s mother’s side, was working in the US. Also Raja Hassein Chaar, who designed the “Phantom” (rockets?), was also living in the US. The well-remembered Oldsmobile, Chevrolet, and Buick of the compound all disappeared in 1975 when the war began and foreigners left the mountain. In 1984 the Israeli Army occupied the hilltop with helicopters and troops; a very bad time for Ainab. 
Small house the Crows built for their "Natour" or guard

Shadia told us two village stories about the Americans: 

NO. 1. In early years, many of the foreigners in Beirut were looking for a place to put houses in the mountains where it was cooler but still close to Beirut. This is mostly where the Druze lived. The Americans were the smartest. They obtained a sacrificed animal from the Druze and cut it into pieces. They took the pieces around to various places in the mountain area and hung them in trees. A week later they came back and inspected the locations. The piece hung in the tree in Ainab was in the best condition so they chose this village to settle in. 

NO. 2. There is a sticky herb called tayuune that grows along the roadside. People make it into brooms to sweep bugs out of their homes as the bugs stick to the leaves. During the 1958 troubles in Lebanon, a local man was shot. They did not want to take him to the hospital in Beirut as there would be too many questions asked, so they took him to the Americans. Here the Americans made a poultice of tayuune, binding the wound. The man healed completely. 

Shadia named the families who now owned the houses. All are Lebanese who mostly live out of the country, one in Australia. The Close house is owned by Ghazi Shaar, president of the municipality. She said that they all know that they own something special and historic. I can’t imagine, however, that they would consider any kind of restoration of the American houses. Having been to many homes of Lebanese, they enjoy spacious splendor with lots of light and high windows and ceilings. These little stone cabins of AUB families are quite different. 

Minnie pondered all this as we walked around, cynically concluding: “The Americans had big minds and small houses. The Lebanese have big houses and empty heads.” I remember the old drive to Ainab in 1974, winding up through hillsides of terraced olive groves. Now it is nearly solid with houses all the way from Beirut. The view, however, is still spectacular and the air clear and crisp. Pine trees – snober – cover the hilltop and the cyclamen is in abundant bloom all over the rocky ground.


Dodd/Dodge House with 
Shadia Shaar & Nour (Minnie) Majdalani

Mary Garvin Eddy (b. 26 Dec. 1896, d. 4 Aug. 1990)

Mary Emma Garvin [Eddy]

* This biography and photos of Mary Eddy were contributed by Julia Costell, the Granddaughter of Mary Eddy - May 22, 2022. (All photos are Julia's, except the first and last two)

Mary Eddy (b. 26 Dec. 1896, d. 4 Aug. 1990) in 1965 in Ainab (Photo by Joan Landis)

Mary Emma Garvin was, like her husband William Alfred Eddy, born to a Presbyterian missionary family. 

Mary Emma Garvin at Wooster College, Ohio. Ca. 1914, age 17

Garvin Family Portrait:  Santiago, Chile, 1910-11. Garvin Family. (front row seated) Gordon Goodale Garvin, Emma Frances (Goodale) Garvin, James Francis Garvin, John Trumbull Garvin; (back row standing) Norman Garvin, Mary Emma Garvin (Eddy), Ruth Pamona Garvin (Chaffin), Hugh Garvin, James Francis Garvin, jr.

Her father, James Francis Garvin, and mother, Emma Frances Goodale, established one of the first public schools in Chile. Interestingly, Emma was born in Marash, Turkey in 1861 (another story). Mary was born in Valparaiso, Chile, December 26, 1896, the seventh of nine children (seven of whom were brothers!). As with her siblings, she was sent to the U.S. to attend high school at the College of Wooster in Ohio, well known for educating the children of missionaries. 

At high school, she met the child of missionaries in Syria, Bill Eddy, who became her lifelong partner. He was a good friend of her older brother. While Bill transferred to Princeton his sophomore year of college, Mary Garvin completed her degree at Wooster. Upon graduation, Bill enlisted in the Marines and days before he was to be shipped out he sent a telegram for Mary to meet him at Union Station in Washington D.C – they were married the next day: October 5, 1917. 

Bill and Mary Eddy at hospital after he was wounded in WWI. Eddy was wounded in his right hip at Belleau Wood. The hip eventually became infected, which led Eddy to lose all mobility in the hip and left him with a pronounced limp for the rest of his life. He was then sent back to the U.S. to recuperate. For his actions as a combat Marine in World War I, he received the Navy Cross, the Distinguished Service Cross, two Silver Stars, and two Purple Hearts.



The couple had four children: Bill, Mary “Cita”, Jack, and Carmen. 

ca. 1940: (L-R standing)  Jack, Mary Cita, Bill jr, (seated) Bill, Carmen, Mary

Bill, Mary, and Crown Prince, Saud bin Abdulaziz Al Saud سعود بن عبد العزيز آل سعود  in Saudi Arabia. In 1943, Eddy was sent to Saudi Arabia as a U.S. State Dept. employee, resident at the American Legation in the city of Jeddah. On September 23, 1944, he became the "Envoy Extraordinary and Minister Plenipotentiary" to Saudi Arabia, remaining in this post until May 28, 1946

1952 Ainab, Mary Eddy, Ruth Eddy, ??, Dora Eddy Close, Jake Eddy, Harold Close, Carmen Eddy (kneeling)
Ken Close adds: "Dora Eddy and her husband Harold Wilberforce Close built the house in Ainab that they later sold to Uncle Bill and Aunt Mary Eddy. Harold Close was dean of arts and sciences and professor of chemistry at AUB for some forty years. At one point, four Arab heads of states had been his students."

Her life adventures are chronicled with those of her husband in An Arabian Knight by Thomas J. Lippman (Selwa Press 2008). More personally, she was a lifetime avid birdwatcher and sent regular reports to the National Audubon Society when living in Jidda. She was also an intrepid hiker, guiding visiting scholars, friends, and visitors to natural, geological, and archaeological sites encountered in Saudi Arabia and Lebanon. 

Bill and Mary 1957

 In addition to her native Spanish and English, she spoke serviceable French and enough Arabic to navigate Arab markets. After Bill died in May of 1962, Mary continued living in their apartment in Ras Beirut near the AUB Hospital and enjoying summers in Ainab. Family and friends were frequent recipients of “Aunt Mary’s” generous hospitality. She was a prominent member of Beirut’s social world with a schedule that left her visiting granddaughters exhausted. 

Above Byblos in Smar Jbeil, 1966, Emmy Boynton (Front Left) Mary Eddy behind her, Doris Dodge, Ann Gordon, Isobel Fistere (standing), Joan Landis (photo Josh Landis)

Mary Eddy and Archie Crawford at the Artist and Art Party (early 1965 Joan Landis)

In 1972 she moved to Hanover, NH, to be closer to her family. She eventually retired to Meadow Lakes, N.J., where she died on August 4, 1990.

Friday, April 30, 2021

Dodds and Dodges

Here's a solo picture of the Dodd and Dodge girls in the late 1960s. By then, the Peter Dodds were summering in Shemlan. The family often visited the Ainab hilltop for tennis and bonfire evenings. Nina occasionally came down to babysit. Here, we seem to be cracking pine-nuts (snobars) from the famous umbrella pines of Ainab.

From left to right: Kika and Frances Dodd, Melissa and Nina Dodge

Monday, December 21, 2020

Dodges at the Dodge House

Nina Dodge hunched behind the tree with Bayard next to her. Kate and Crif Crawford’s kids in the middle and Melissa and Simon Dodge on the right. The doll appears to be Raggedy Ann! (Photo thanks to Bayard Dodge) 1964?
Archibald Stuart “Archie” Crawford lived in the house (built by?) next to the Dodges. He was born 24 Apr 1899 in Rif Dimashq, or the outskirts of Damascus, Syria. He died in 1983 (aged 84)in Hightstown, New Jersey. He was married to Mary Elizabeth Pickard Crawford 1897-1962.

Wedding photo from July 1928, Westville, Nova Scotia. 

American University of Beirut administrative roles: 1924 Secr. to AUB Pres.; later, Assistant Treasurer, Treasurer, Acting President.  
They had one son, John Pickard “Crif” Crawford who was born on 3 June 1929 in Beirut. He died on 2 Dec 2019 (aged 90) in Boulder, Colorado. He has two daughters. Read his obituary here.  His family of missionaries had been involved with the development of the Syrian Presbyterian College and the American University of Beirut (AUB) since 1857. His early schooling was at the American Community School in Beirut. Boyhood summers were spent hiking and playing tennis in Ainab, Lebanon and Bludan, Syria.



Sunday, September 13, 2020

The Dorman Family in Lebanon - By Peter Dorman 9/2020

According to family lore, the Dorman family connection to Lebanon came about in the late 1890s at Union Congregational Church in Montclair, NJ, when Harry Gaylord Dorman, an aspiring physician at Columbia University, asked of his neighbor who the young lady was near the front pews. 

Harry Gaylord Dorman Sr.

“She’s the minister’s niece,” came the answer, whereupon Harry simply grunted, “Humph.” The minister was Howard Sweetser Bliss, who in a few years was to be appointed president of the Syrian Protestant college (in 1902, succeeding his father, Daniel Bliss), and the young lady was Mary Bliss Dale, visiting her uncle on break from her classes at Vassar College. 

May Dale (later, Mary Dale Dorman). Freshman at Vassar College, 1898


Ma with her mother, Mary Bliss Dale (on left) and grandmother, Abby Wood Bliss (on left) at Marquand House. January 14, 1903.

Daniel Bliss and Abby Wood Bliss on Ma and Pa's wedding day, January 14, 1903. Daniel was 80 years old; Abby was 73 years old. Marquand House

Apparently Harry had a change of heart when, on graduation from Columbia’s College of Physicians and Surgeons in 1900, he married Mary and they traveled together to Beirut, where the bride’s widowed mother (who also called herself Mary Bliss Dale!) was living, and where Harry took a position as a pediatrician at the college hospital. 

Mary Bliss Dale 1895 in her widow's black, which Mary wore for the rest of her life - because it helped ensure respect for her as a single, professional woman, as she later told her grandchildren. She became Superintendent of AUB Hospital and was a very busy, professional woman - and always a very devoted mother to May.

Mary Dale (later, Dorman), age 15, and her mother, Mary Bliss Dale, in Bedouin clothing, Jerusalem, 1895.


Beginning in 1903, the couple eventually had six children: Gerald, Harry Jr. (“Bud”), Belle, John, Daniel (Dan), and David, all born in Beirut except for John, who was born in Shemlan.

Dorman Family after David's birth 1919

1922 Beirut harbor and Mount Lebanon

The Dormans occupied a large traditional house with a red-tiled roof on the corner of Rue Abdul Aziz and what was to become Rue Bliss (named after Howard following his untimely death in 1920) across the street from the college campus. 

Dorman Beirut House on Rue Bliss marked with an X 1922


Harry Sr. set up his clinic on the ground floor of the building, while the upper floors were occupied by the family. 

Harry Dorman Sr. 1922 in the Beirut House

The house was the home of Daniel and Abby Bliss as well as Mary Dale, after they moved out of the president’s residence at Marquand House to make room for his son and successor. As the children grew older, they attended classes at the American Community School, which was established in 1905 for children of the faculty of the college. Mary Dale Dorman was one of the organizers, and classes were initially held at the Dorman home, and later in larger quarters on Sidani Street just off Rue Jeanne d’Arc. To escape the heat and humidity of Beirut summers, Harry purchased a large villa and grounds in Shemlan from the Marquis de Freij around 1910 that overlooked the small village and, far below, Beirut and the coastline south of the city 







Dorman Shemlan House 1923
View of Beirut from Shemlan


Shemlan 4th of July with fireworks: Belle Dorman is the girl with bows in her hair


Mary Dale had cofounded the Nursing School at the college in 1905 together with Elizabeth Van Zandt (the first nursing school in the Middle East), and Harry was appointed founding dean of the Medical School in 1915 (until 1924). Those first decades were eventful, as the family endured the hardships of the First World War within the colonial territory of the Ottoman Empire, allied with Germany, Austria-Hungary, and Italy. Their closest friends from that period were their Bliss cousins living at Marquand House with Aunt Amy (Blatchford): Margaret, Alice, and Mary.


The war years were a time of extreme deprivation. As Superintendent of Nursing at the AUB Hospital, Mary Bliss Dale witnessed the terrible starvation and suffering of the occupied population and was actively involved in distributing food and other aid to the local Arabs, though under Ottoman military rule it was strictly forbidden for her to do so. One hot summer day, the military police showed up at her office and told her that she was to come with them immediately to the police station: essentially, an arrest. She led the policemen out of the building and past their carriage, announcing that she would rather walk. At her usual brisk pace, her flummoxed escort had no choice but to follow her and arrived at the police station dripping heavily with sweat. When the captain began to lecture her on the law against aiding the Arabs, she soon interrupted him, saying, "You asked me to come to the station, and here I am. But I can't stay here long, because I'm very busy at the hospital. Goodbye." She turned and stalked out, knowing that, as Muslims, the police could not touch her or physically restrain her. She walked straight back to her office and was never bothered again.


From an Interview with Belle Dorman Rugh at age 100 in 2008.


Once the war had ended, Harry Sr. informed his children that they were going on a treasure hunt in the bac
 k garden of the old house, and of course they dutifully followed along, although with a bit of skepticism. To their astonishment, a metal box was soon dug out of the earth, filled with bags of solid gold coins—which their father had hidden several years before in case of dire war emergency or sudden evacuation, fortunately never needed.

1926 Harry Dorman Sr., Harry Dorman Jr., John, Dan

Among many visitors to the Dorman home around 1923 was an Egyptologist, James H. Breasted, who had founded Chicago’s Oriental Institute and whom Howard Carter had invited to record the stamped impressions on the sealed doorway of Tutankhamun’s tomb. Belle would later recall that, as a girl of fifteen, Breasted had kindly taken her aside to tell her about the excitement of the discovery and what it was like to enter a largely intact pharaonic tomb.

1929 New Car; Pa, Harry, John, and David


As the Dorman children grew older, the boys were sent off in succession to boarding school at Andover (Belle continued her secondary education at ACS) and then on to Harvard and graduate school to begin various careers: Gerald as a doctor (internal medicine?), Harry as an ordained minister, John to the foreign service, Dan as an obstetrician, and David as a librarian. 


Belle Dorman and brothers in Shemlan 1923

While their Lebanese roots were indelible in all this generation, Belle and Harry Jr. were the only two who returned to work in Lebanon itself. Belle attended college at Vassar and earned a master's degree at Columbia University before returning to Beirut to teach: first at the Ahliyah School for girls and later at Beirut College for Women (now Lebanese American University).  She met a young staffite at the American University of Beirut, Douglas Rugh, who had been born and raised in China as the son of missionaries. 

Douglas Rugh & Belle Dorman newly engaged in Shemlan 1933


Belle Dorman and Douglas Rugh Wedding photo Shemlan 1934

The pair were married in Shemlan in 1934 and first moved to China, where Doug taught as an instructor at Yenching University in Beijing, which had been founded along American lines much like AUB, and then to Seattle in 1937, where Doug earned his PhD in developmental education at the University of Washington. The Rughs, with their three daughters (Betsy, Molly, and June) later settled in Wethersfield, CT, where Doug taught in the education and psychology departments at the University of Connecticut.


After graduating from Harvard, Harry Jr. served initially as a staffite at International College in the late 1920s and briefly contemplated a career in archaeology, spending a 1931 season in Iraq with Bob Braidwood (later a major eminence in prehistoric Near Eastern archaeology at Chicago’s Oriental Institute). He then completed a bachelor of divinity degree at Union Theological Seminary, returning to the North Syria Boy’s School in Aleppo, where Douglas and Becky Decherd were residing, becoming fast friends. 


1929 Belle in the Citadel overlooking Aleppo


By 1938 Harry was serving as dean of students at the Boy’s School on a newly built campus. As an instructor to youth during these years, Harry was able to develop his innate entertainment skills as a storyteller (Jeha tales and fleabone stories), singer (“The Bear Went Over the Mountain,” Alouette,” Three Wood Pigeons,” etc.) , and occasional performer in the odd (sometimes quite odd) Gilbert and Sullivan production.

Dorman Siblings on Shemlan Balcony in1929 - Harry Dorman Jr. with tray of fruit on his head

In 1939 Harry decided to begin a joint doctor of divinity degree at Harvard and Union Seminary, where he met Virginia Whitney (Ginny), who was working toward a master’s degree in sacred music; they were married in 1940 in Worcester, MA, by Ginny’s uncle, Harry Emerson Fosdick. 

Their honeymoon essentially took them around the world to reach Harry’s posting at Aleppo, since the Mediterranean had already been closed to shipping. The couple passed through Seattle, where the Rughs met the new bride, then on through the Pacific and through the Philippines, across the Indian Ocean and via Baghdad up to Aleppo.


Before the war years, Dan had trained as an obstetrician, with the intention of eventually joining his father in Beirut and carrying the medical work forward for another generation in Beirut, but World War II intervened. Gerald joined the army as a doctor, while John and Dan joined the Navy. Harry and Ginny passed the war years in Syria/Lebanon until 1946, spending summers in Shemlan. But as German armies approached Cairo along the North African coast in 1941, they were evacuated to Jerusalem along with other American nationals in case the Egyptian capital fell and they would need to be shipped out of the region altogether. In that intervening year Harry and Ginny grew especially close to the Decherd family, also evacuees. It was from Jerusalem that Harry Sr. and Mary Dorman decided to retire from overseas service and returned to the US in 1941, moving to Cambridge, MA. 

Harry G. Dorman (Sr.), M.D., 1940 - Relaxing outdoors (looks like picnic fixings in the background).

After Rommel was turned back from El Alamein, the Americans were permitted to resume their activities in Syria, and it was left to Harry Jr. to close the family house in Beirut. Then babies arrived: Harry Gaylord Dorman III (“Gay”) was born in Tripoli four days after his grandfather’s death in 1943. The family relocated to Beirut in 1946, occupying the old family home again, and four other children came along: Eleanor, Peter, David (born in Worcester on a furlough year), and Kathy. 

Dorman Family in Worcester, MA, on furlough in the summer of 1952; from left to right it’s Ginny, Eleanor, Peter, Harry III (“Gay”), and Harry Jr. (“Bud”) with David on his lap—Kathy not yet born. 

Harry’s job at this point was with Christian Youth groups, and he taught part time at the Near East School of Theology, while Ginny taught music there. Harry became Secretary of the Near East Christian Council in the early1950s and at that time the Dormans moved out of the old house on Bliss Street, which had become structurally unsound, and into an apartment on Rue Makdisi. 


May Dorman in Old Beirut House 1922


The children all attended ACS from kindergarten on at the school’s new campus on the Corniche next to AUB, established with the support and funding from the Presbyterian mission, the US Embassy, and Aramco, many of whose employees desired an American school in the area. As with the previous generation, the kids were sent off to boarding school in the US when they were old enough: Gay and Peter to Vermont Academy and Eleanor to Northfield School for Girls. Various cousins in Beirut during this period included Margaret Bliss Leavitt, whose husband, Leslie, was headmaster of IC; and David Dodge, one of the grandsons of Daniel, whose children Bayard, Nina, and Melissa were close in age to the youngest Dormans.


Beirut winters were tempered by glorious summers in Shemlan and the occasional “Mission Meeting” in Dhour Shweir, when children of various mission families could congregate and, while their parents were in sober session, get into all kinds of mischief. 

Shemlan House 1922

Cousins and friends also lived in Shemlan: Alice and Byron Smith (Alice was the sister of Meg Leavitt), and the Decherds. Betsy Decherd cemented a family connection in marrying George Lane, a foreign service officer who was the son of Fred Lane (the celebrated Venetian scholar) and Harriet, who was a Whitney and therefore a cousin of Ginny’s. 

Betsy Decherd (Lane) with Elizabeth Bliss (Smith) at the Dormans in Shemlan in baskets woven in the Druze village of Baysour, renouned for its basket-weaving. 


The usual summer activities in Shemlan were essentially the same as those of the previous (barely post-Victorian!) generation: pressing flowers and labeling them, looking for fossils and geological samples, observing the heavens and memorizing the constellations, sketching the scenery, watching ant nests, filling small glass bottles with layers of different colors of sand, enjoying afternoon teas, visiting ancient and medieval ruins, hikes to Ainab, and regular games of tennis and baseball. 

Tennis in Shemlan
Swimming at Tom Sawyer's Pool 1931

On Saturdays the village boys and our American friends from the Ainab colony would gather for baseball on the slanted field next to the house; in fact Shemlan developed its own competitive village team that competed against others in Beirut.

Baseball in Shemlan in 1931

1931 Baseball roster, including Stanley Kerr, Harold Close, William Stoltzfus was principal of a boys' school in Aleppo, Syria, and later president of the Beirut College for Women for 20 years, Leavitt, (Laurens Hickok) Seelye?, a professor at A.U.B. and father of Talcott Seelye, Ambassador to Syria, whose daughter Kate is V.P. of the Middle East Institute in DC today.


Doug and Belle Rugh returned to Beirut in 1955-1957, when Doug worked for UNRWA to develop an educational system for Palestinian refugees; and later, in 1963-1966, when Doug worked as professor of psychology (and part-time as bursar) at AUB. During that later stay, the Rughs enjoyed summering in Baysour, a Druze village in the Chouf mountains, and visiting Belle's childhood summer home in Shemlan.

Belle's Rock & Crystal Moutain 1931

Belle Dorman Rugh published Crystal Mountain in 1955


In 1964 the Dormans made a final move back to the US, but Eleanor was the first of her generation to return in 1968 when, after finishing her MA in philosophy she was hired to teach at the Beirut College for Women. She met her future husband Rich Johnson at BCW, beginning a lifelong joint interest in secondary education, first at Loomis School in CT, then at Robert College in Istanbul, then back to the US at Northfield-Mount Hermon with a stint in Zimbabwe; their three children—Betsy, Katie, and Peter—all had the benefit of living overseas in very different countries. With the growing conflicts in the Middle East beginning in 1967 and continuing through the civil war in Lebanon (1975-1990), it became impossible for Americans to travel to Beirut until 1997, at which time Rich was hired as the head of the math department at ACS and Eleanor as a development officer. She soon made a lateral move to the provost’s office at AUB. Their daughter, Betsy, had met her future husband, Jason Crook, at the international Schutz School in Alexandria, and moved to Beirut as well, both teaching for three years at ACS. Their son, Dan Crook, was born in Beirut in 2001, the 6th generation of the family.

The lower end of Shemlan - undated


Shemlan in 1979


In the meantime, after receiving his bachelor’s degree in anthropology at Amherst and serving in the US Navy for three years, Peter chose to pursue graduate studies in Egyptology at the University of Chicago’s Oriental Institute beginning in 1974, and on a visit to Istanbul in 1976 Eleanor and Rich introduced him to Kathy Crecelius, who was teaching at the Üsuküdar School for Girls on the Asian side of the Bosphorus. After a lengthy courtship of five days and an engagement of 11 months, they were married in Orient, NY, and initially moved to New York for Peter’s first job at the Metropolitan Museum of Art. In 1978 they moved to Montclair, where Meg and Emily were born, and attended Union Congregational Church—exactly where the Bliss-Dorman connection had first been made. In 1988 Peter was hired at the Oriental Institute to direct the Epigraphic Survey in Luxor, whose first director, Harold Nelson, had served as a professor of history at AUB but who had been lured away by James H. Breasted to found the expedition in Luxor in 1924. Kathy, Meg, and Emily spent several winter months every year home-schooling in Luxor and exploring the ruins of ancient Thebes on their free days. Peter returned to Chicago with his family as a full-time professor of Egyptology in 199, and served for five year as chair of the department of Near Eastern languages and civilizations. Kathy and Peter were able to spend a sabbatical semester in Beirut in the spring of 2006, renting an apartment on Rue Makdisi and enjoying the company of the Johnsons. In 2008 Peter was offered the position of AUB president, and his inauguration served as a chance for a sizable family reunion together with siblings and cousins, in both Beirut and Shemlan.

Peter Dorman with Students at AUB 2012


Just to add some curious historical coincidences at this point, as happen so often in the Middle East to illustrate the circle of collegial and generational links: Calvin Plimpton, who was a trustee of AUB and stepped in as president of the university from 1984-87 directly following the tragic killing of Malcolm Kerr, had previously served as president of Amherst College and handed Peter his BA diploma during commencement exercises in 1970. During Peter’s tenure at AUB, a number of alumni presented him their grandfathers’ medical diplomas to show Harry Dorman (Sr.)’s signature as dean of medicine from the early 1920s; but next to it was also the signature of Harold Nelson, who was secretary of the university before his move to the Epigraphic Survey in Luxor.

Peter and Kathy lived at Marquand House until he stepped down from the presidency in 2015; he continued as a professor of history and archaeology at the university for two more years until retiring to Vashon Island in WA state. At that point Eleanor and Rich had also retired from Lebanon in 2013 and settled in Easthampton, MA.

Many earlier photos of “Dorman Family Memorabilia,” can be found here.